While I spent Sunday night and Monday at Red Top LO, Dane came up with a few ideas for us for Tuesday’s hike. One idea was Fortune Peak with a possible side trip to S. Ingalls. We decided that would be a great trip and on Tuesday morning I picked him up at 6:15. By 8:30 we were at the TH putting our boots on and getting ready for the journey ahead.

We opted to make a loop out of it and took a right at the Longs Pass junction shortly after the trail started. After a bit of time we encountered some snow but we were able to stay mostly on track with the buried trail. Somewhere we lost the next junction but we knew that we were doing alright and were heading north towards Ingalls Pass. By 11:00 I think it was we were at Ingalls Pass with Stuart staring us in the face.


Down below we saw an empty camp with 3 tents sitting on a dry slab of rock. Not being too certain of the snow conditions we sported our crampons and axes and descended into the basin. We did try to stay high and traverse our way around to a route we spied up to S. Ingalls. We decided on a south slope ascent rather than increase our distance and hike the saddle between the two Ingalls summits. We passed two other day hikers who had already made the summit and they told us that the snow for the most part was fairly soft. We decided to keep our crampons on and headed up towards the summit. With axes at the ready we started up the steep slope to the ridgeline. The higher we got the steeper the slope became. Self belay found itself to be rather helpful a few times for us as the snow consistency changed.
Finally we made the ridge and we were staring at the southern approach to S. Ingalls.

We dropped our packs, grabbed Clif bars and our cameras and we set off for the summit. The first part of the ascent was rather easy as it was just on some loose rocks and talus. Within short time we were at the base of the massive summit block.
With Dane helping to eye the route I headed up the scrambly rocks and took my time and had a good time. Now, I’m not a big fan of exposure or crazy scrambling routes, but I found this first section to be pretty good. I got up to a decent spot to stop and Dane quickly joined me. We continued in this manner all the way to the summit where the views were spectacular!!! Oh yeah, I checked the route from the north and it was significantly easier, or so it looked. We took in the views of Stuart and the other peaks in the area, had our small snack and snapped some photos.

I was a bit nervous about our descent as it’s always easier to go up than down. This time Dane would lead and help me from below. I spied a slot route just below the summit that we decided would be better than our route up so he started downward. With the exception of one tricky spot, this route was pretty good and enjoyable.
We rejoined our packs and eyed a route to Fortune just below the ridgeline. Dane led the way as we crossed a snowfield heading towards some rock.

I felt more comfortable on the snow rather than the rock, but I followed Dane’s lead. This route was not as straightforward as Ingalls was, and it was a bit trickier too. As we pressed onward we were in constant contact and he was checking to see how I was doing and how my comfort level was at. I could have turned around at any point I knew, but I wanted to push myself and my limits a bit, but not too much, the punishment for to much risk was too great. There was one spot that made me want to chuck my pack down the mountain due to its cozy nature as I had to half crawl under a rock. At that point I knew that turning around would not be an option and that if I had to bail it would be straight down towards the snowfield.
*Note to self, smaller and lighter pack for this kind of stuff in the future*
After a few nerve wracking moments we were done with this section and we got back onto the ridge and made it to the summit of Fortune. I couldn’t believe our route here and how short it looked but how long it felt.

We snacked and snapped more photos and just relaxed for a bit. Dane almost fell asleep and I just chilled.

We had considered descending the west ridge but decided to head down the south ridge instead. The first section was easy through some short trees and talus /scree. We found ourselves on the ridge with an awesome looking glissade below us. Dane headed down first and got a fairly long run in. With his camera rolling I headed down next. Wow!!! That was a fast run down. The first section of 5 feet was steep and the rest was steep too, but not quite as much. I joined Dane in the run out and he asked how long I thought it would take us to hike back up for another run!!!!! We were exhausted!!! WTF Dane???? W did head back up and this time I went down first. I got to my pack and took some photos as Dane headed down. With his camera in one hand he was all over the place, it was funny to watch!!!
Wet and chilly we continued our hike down and found a talus/scree slope to take down to the trail in the Esmeralda Basin. Quickly the route got a bit hairy as avalanches had ripped the slope apart. Cliffs sprang up and we’d have to quickly change course.

Finally we made it to the trail where we took a break and begged for the car to appear. With fatigue setting in we lumbered down the last 2 miles of trail and 900’ of elevation descent until we saw the happy sight of the parking lot and my car. 8.5 hours and almost 4000’ of gain later we had two awesome summits under our belts and a 2 hour drive back to Seattle. Dane snored half the way back home and I tried to drown out the noise with my stereo.
What a great day to push myself and tag a couple great summits with a friend.




















